Grilled Kebab · Punjab and Delhi, with the tandoor tradition itself also rooted in the Northwest Frontier/Peshawar region

Charred Chicken Tikka with a Double Marinade

Contains Meat Intermediate Grilled Medium

Boneless chicken pieces are marinated in two stages, first with ginger, garlic and lemon, then with thick yogurt and ground spices, and grilled hot and fast until charred and smoky.

Hands-On4 hrs 30 min
On the Heat15 min
Start to Finish4 hrs 45 min
Makes4 servings (about 20 pieces)
Home RegionNorth India

Overview

Chicken tikka consists of boneless chicken cut into bite-sized cubes, marinated in two stages and cooked over fierce heat until the surface blisters and chars while the interior stays moist. It introduced tandoori cooking to a large audience outside India, and it is one of the few restaurant staples that transfers well to a domestic kitchen. Two requirements decide the result, a proper marinade and strong heat from above or beside the meat, and neither depends on owning a clay oven. The two-stage marinade is the central point. The first coating, made of ginger, garlic, lemon and salt, seasons and softens the meat from within. The second, a thicker mixture of yogurt and spices, is the layer that clings and chars when it meets the heat. Going straight to a single marinade is the leading reason that home versions taste flat beside a good restaurant or roadside tikka.

Where the Dish Comes From

The origin of chicken tikka is disputed, and it is more accurate to say so than to name one place. The tandoor, together with the habit of marinating meat in yogurt and spices before cooking it quickly at high heat, is recorded in the Northwest Frontier region, around what is now Peshawar in Pakistan. Punjabi refugee cooks carried tandoori cooking into Delhi and Punjab after Partition in 1947, and restaurants such as Moti Mahal in Delhi are the names most often linked with that move. Colleen Taylor Sen and Lizzie Collingham both place tandoori chicken and chicken tikka within this Punjab and Peshawar continuum and not with one inventor or one city. On that reading, the dish eaten in Delhi and Punjab today continues a Northwest Frontier tradition that was reshaped and widely popularised after 1947, and it is not a wholly separate Indian invention. Chicken tikka masala, the gravy dish made from grilled tikka pieces, has a different history of its own, centred on South Asian restaurants in Britain and equally disputed. It is a separate dish from the one described here.

Step-by-Step Method

  1. Prep

    Apply the first marinade

    The cubed chicken is tossed with the ginger-garlic paste, lemon juice and salt until every piece is coated, then covered and refrigerated for at least 20 minutes while the second marinade is made. This thin first layer travels into the meat and seasons it from within, something a single heavy coating of yogurt cannot achieve alone.

  2. Prep

    Mix and add the second marinade

    Smooth yogurt is the base here. Chilli powder, garam masala, cumin, coriander, turmeric, kasuri methi, oil and salt are folded into it, and the paste is worked over the chicken by hand until each cube is covered. Oil is not a garnish in this coating. It gives the spices something to grip and lets them char on the meat, whereas a dry paste would crack and drop off on the grill.

  3. Prep

    Marinate in the refrigerator

    The bowl is covered and refrigerated for a minimum of 4 hours. Overnight, up to 24 hours, gives a deeper flavour and more tender meat. Poultry is always marinated under refrigeration. At room temperature raw chicken stays within the range in which bacteria multiply most quickly, and no quantity of acid or spice in a marinade removes that risk.

  4. Prep

    Thread onto skewers

    Once out of the refrigerator, the cubes go onto skewers with a narrow gap between neighbours. The gap lets hot air reach the sides and brown them along with the tops. Wooden skewers must have been soaked for 30 minutes or more, or their bare ends will burn and snap over the fire.

  5. Cook

    Sear over strong, direct heat

    Preheating is not a formality here. The grill, pan or broiler must be thoroughly hot before any meat touches it, because speed and intensity define the result. Skewers are placed on it and left alone for 3 to 4 minutes per side, long enough for the edges to blacken in spots and not merely turn brown. A domestic broiler turned to maximum, with the rack near the element, can take the place of an outdoor grill.

  6. Cook

    Baste and cook through

    Turning happens every few minutes, and each turn is followed by a light brush of melted butter or oil. Cooking is complete when all sides show patches of char and the centre is done, which usually means 12 to 15 minutes overall, depending on the strength of the fire. The probe reading in the thickest cube must reach 74°C (165°F) at minimum. Thigh meat tolerates that figure and remains juicy, while breast would not, and that is why thighs are called for.

  7. Serve

    Rest, season and serve

    Off the heat, the skewers stand for 2 to 3 minutes, and then the cubes are pushed off. A sprinkle of chaat masala and fresh lemon juice go over them, and the vinegar-dressed onions accompany the plate. Because the char softens as the chicken cools, the dish belongs at the table straight from the fire and should not be kept waiting.

Ingredient Swaps

Boneless breast meat can stand in for thigh, though it dries more quickly at tandoor-style heat, so it should come off the heat a couple of minutes sooner and be checked with a thermometer more often. Greek yogurt replaces ordinary thick yogurt with no adjustment. Where Kashmiri chilli powder is unavailable, half the amount of a hotter chilli powder blended with a little paprika gives similar colour, because Kashmiri chilli is chosen chiefly for its deep red and mild heat, not for strength. A charcoal grill produces the most convincing smoky result. An indoor cast-iron grill pan followed by a spell under a hot broiler comes very close for kitchens without outdoor space.

Turning the Heat Up or Down

Heat comes from the chilli powder in the second marinade and can be raised or lowered freely without changing how the dish chars, since charring depends on the heat source and on the sugars in the marinade, not on the chilli. A milder result needs only Kashmiri chilli powder, which is gentle, with no additional red chilli. A hotter result comes from adding a level teaspoon of a stronger chilli powder, or a pinch of cayenne, beside the Kashmiri, which keeps the red colour while raising the heat. If the dish proves too hot, a last dusting of chaat masala after grilling adds brightness without making it any hotter.

Frequent Errors

Four faults account for most poor batches. First, marinating too briefly. Twenty or thirty minutes is not enough for the acid and spices to reach the meat, and the result tastes of spiced chicken and not of tikka, so at least 4 hours should be allowed, with overnight preferred. Second, cooking over heat that is not strong enough, which gives grey, steamed-looking chicken in place of char, since tikka needs high direct heat applied briefly. Third, leaving the oil out of the marinade, which lets the spice coating dry and fall away on the grill without forming a cohesive crust. Fourth, cutting pieces of uneven size, so that smaller ones are dry and overcooked by the time larger ones reach a safe temperature. Cubes of a uniform 1.5 inches avoid that problem.

Keeping and Warming Leftovers

To keep: Chicken sitting in its marinade stays acceptable for a single day in a covered container in the refrigerator. After 24 hours the acid starts to degrade the muscle fibres and leaves a mealy surface, so longer holding is avoided. Grilled pieces are kept chilled in a sealed box for as many as 3 days. Freezing cooked tikka is possible for up to 2 months and is safe, but the char and the bite both decline after thawing.

To warm: Tikka is best reheated in a hot dry pan or under a hot broiler, a few minutes per side, which revives part of the char. A microwave makes the texture rubbery and removes the smoky edge entirely. Where a microwave is used for convenience, the chicken is covered loosely and heated in short bursts, then put briefly under the broiler to crisp the outside again. Cooked chicken is always reheated until it is steaming hot throughout before it is served.

Safe Handling

Raw poultry brings several requirements beyond ordinary kitchen hygiene. Chicken is marinated in the refrigerator and never on the counter, even for a short time. A separate cutting board and knife are used for raw chicken, and hands, utensils and every surface touched by the meat or its marinade are washed with hot soapy water before contact with other food. Marinade that has touched raw chicken is not served as a sauce or drizzle unless it has first been boiled hard for at least a minute. The chicken is cooked to a minimum internal temperature of 74°C (165°F), measured with a thermometer at the thickest part of the largest piece and not judged by colour, and leftovers are refrigerated within two hours of cooking.

References

  • Colleen Taylor Sen, "Feasts and Fasts: A History of Food in India" (Reaktion Books) — on the Northwest Frontier origins of tandoori cooking and its spread into Punjab and Delhi after 1947.
  • Lizzie Collingham, "Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors" (Oxford University Press) — on the Peshawar-to-Delhi history of the tandoor and the restaurants that popularized tandoori chicken and tikka.

See Also